We went to Burundi for the weekend, four of us, and it was amazing. Really amazing. After getting our visas in Kigali at the Burundi Embassy, we drove down. I was worried a bit about the drive as the area from the border to the capital can be really dangerous, but this seems to be mainly after dark, so we made sure to be in Bujumbura before 4PM, and everything was fine.
One of our friends used to live there so it was really nice seeing the parts of town we would never have otherwise experienced. We went out to some amazing restraunts - like Indian that was so great we, literally, were licking bit of sauce from the table atthe end. The food in general was really really good, though I still wasn't thrilled with the fish, even if it was "fresh" from the lake. Growing up on the coast of the North Atlantic makes you spoiled. Bujumbura does have some fun nightlife though, and we went out dancing more than once. The return trip was crazy, especially the near fist fight that broke out in the pushing shoving mob at the painfully slow exit customs. Some lady called me a bitch after *she* forced herself in front of me in the "line" (read: mob) and I noted what had happened.
But by far the best part was the lake. It was stunning, warm, fun, just amazing. We spent a lot of time at the lake at a place called Bora Bora run by a friend of a friend. Waves, sand, water, mojitos, the mountains of the DRC - the really really high mountains - on the other side ofthe lake, it was gorgeous. And real chocolate mousse! Can you tell how sick of Kigali's restraunts we are? The only problem with Bujumbura was that the food was so good that it made us really sad to return to Kigali.
Honestly though, Kigali is great. It's safe, there are systems that work, even if they are slow. We have hot water at home, a great view, and decent fresh foods, even if they get a bit repetitive for lack of variety. You can walk around at night. The police do not hasstle you. This comes with the fact that the food is expensive and shitty in nearly all restraunts, and public service is truly terrible. Frequently orders are messed up, bills added incorrectly, and when this is pointed out, people often (though not always) show no concern at all. It makes you appreciate good customer service when it actually happens - or at least appreciating mediocre service.
When we were in Bujumbura I had my ipod stolen - from out of the vehicle when we were stopped at a stoplight. A guy just reached in, grabbed it, and ran before I even knew what was happening. The police offer standing literally right beside out car just stared blankly into space with no concern whatsoever. (We later learned that for abribe of $10 the police officer would have *shot* the guy - for real.) As it turned out, an old man saw what happened, chased the thief down, beat him up, and then returned the ipod! It was surreal, but it's hard constantly having to be on guard. In Rwanda you're constantly on from the hasstles - No, I don't want to buy airtime, No, I don't want to buy a map of Kigali, No, I don't want a copy of the New Times OR Jeune Afrik OR the Economist (offered always in that order), Stop screwing me on prices for motos, No, an avacado is not indeed 700 francs (it's 100), and Yes, I am fully aware that I am a Muzungu (white person) though that is not indeed my name, nor is "my friend" (always followed by "give-a me money" or something to buy), and contrary to popular belief, it is not actually necessary to announce that "Muzungu, Muzungu!" has arrived every time I enter certain shops - but the key is that in Rwanda you do not have to be constantly on for fear of theft or personal safety. There is theft, of course, but it's more like the reality in Chicago or Boston. Be careful and alert, but you can put the windows of the car down, and you can walk around after dark. It's just a different kind of having to be "on", but I'd prefer hasstle-on vs safety-on any day of the week. Bujumbura was great for a visit- and I'd go back - but I'm so much happier to be living in Kigali!
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